www.kregtool.com Gary Striegler is a second generation homebuilder with over 25 years of hands-on experience. Known all across the country for his use of time-proven techniques and beautiful home detailing, Gary is a strong advocate for anything that helps him get the job done faster, without sacrificing the strength and longevity of his work. Gary is the host of Kregs detailed Trim Carpentry DVD (from which these short clips were taken), which walks you through skills and strategies designed to speed your work and improve the quality of your finished product by building with Pocket-Screw Joinery. What Pocket-Holes let you do, is build better projects, faster, and really with less skill. -Gary Striegler
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Monday, December 19, 2011
Richelieu Hardware - K3 Master System Pocket-Hole Jig
www.richelieu.com Product # 9132001 Model K3MS - The ultimate kit for KREG joinery The Kreg Jig Master System is the ultimate Pocket-Hole Jig on the market, and a great choice for any woodworking enthusiast. Between its front-side clamping capabilities, Dust-Collection Attachment, material Support Stop, removable 3-Hole Drill Guide, and seemingly endless adjustability, this jig truly has it all!
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Friday, December 16, 2011
How to Make a Miter Saw Table
Miter saws can be used in a woodworking shop as a permanently installed tool or on the jobsite as a portable or semi-portable unit. I will discuss the construction of miter saw tables appropriate to both types of installations. The purpose of a miter saw table is two-fold: (1) to elevate the saw to a comfortable working height for the operator and (2) to provide a surface to the left and/or right of the saw for the extension of the fence and to provide support for long materials while being cut. If you have ever tried to cut a 45-degree miter at one end of a 2 x 6 x 12, you know why a miter saw table or roller stand is absolutely required.
Very often, miter saws are used to make repetitive cuts of the same length. Some sort of saw stop comes in handy and greatly speeds production time for this sort of application. A saw stop must mount to something to hold it in place, usually a fence. You can make your own fence out of a very straight piece of wood or metal or you can do as I did and purchase a commercially available moveable stop that slides along an aluminum track that includes a stick-on measuring tape.
PERMANENT SAW TABLE FOR SHOP USE
Since I buy lumber in lengths up to 14 feet long, I decided to build a very long miter saw table in my woodworking shop. You may not have the physical space for this in your shop so you may have to reduce my measurements accordingly. The longer you can build it, the better off it will be for you but any length of saw table is better than no table at all. My miter saw table measures 8 Feet to the left of the saw blade and another 8 feet to the right of the saw blade. This way, I can support the full length of a sheet of plywood on either side.
The saw table is constructed over 2 x 4 framing and contains multiple storage drawers below the table which I use to store small tools and supplies. If you prefer, the space underneath the saw table can be left open for shelf space or lumber storage. I suggest that the top surface be 3/4" Melamine or Formica over 3/4" particle board. If you can use the entire 4-foot width of the Melamine or particle board, by all means do so, especially if your miter saw is of the "sliding compound miter" type. As for overall table height, I would suggest that you build the miter saw table so that the top of the table comes to your belt line when standing. This will give you a comfortable working height and still allow you to bend over the table.
There should be a gap cut through saw table top in the area where the saw is to be mounted. This gap must be exactly as wide as the top of your miter saw and must be open to the front of the table. The gap should close behind the top of the miter saw. The saw must be mounted in this gap so that the top of the miter saw table is flush with the top of the saw table. The miter handle must be free to move its full travel in both directions, left to right.
Anticipate the need for this gap as you are framing the underside of your miter saw table because you will need to construct a shelf underneath to support the weight of the miter saw. You might want to make this shelf adjustable in micro increments so that you can get the top of the saw platform exactly flush to the top of the saw table. You can do this with lag screws with washers in sliding slots through the shelf sub-structure and into the table framing. Slightly loosen the lags and tap the table up or down with a rubber hammer before tightening the lags fully. Use a long straightedge in all directions to make sure that the miter saw and the miter saw table are flush with each other. Mount the saw securely to the shelf using lag screws.
Once the miter saw is mounted, you can begin to construct the fence or fences. A simple, inexpensive fence can be constructed using 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 clear fir boards. These boards should be hand selected for straightness and jointed on one edge. One board will be the actual fence and the other will keep it straight from behind. The fence sits with its jointed edge on the saw table top while the back-up board lies flat on the table, behind the fence, with its jointed edge joined to the bottom of the fence.
Before joining the two boards together, slotted holes should be cut into the back-up board for the purpose of mounting and adjusting the fence position on the table top with reference to the fence on the miter saw. These slots should be slightly wider than the shaft diameter of the lag screws you intend to use to mount the fence to the table. Cut a few equally spaced slots in the back-up board perpendicular (at right angle) to the fence. A 2 x 4 joist should be located under the table top, centered underneath the slots in the back-up board. This will give the lag screws something solid to bite into.
Before mounting the fence or fences to the miter saw table top, draw a pencil or chalk line where the front of the fence is to be positioned. Take a long straightedge, lay it flat on the miter saw's metal table and push one edge of it long the miter saw's metal fence. Keeping it in this position, draw a pencil line along the table top, out as far as possible. Repeat on the opposite side of the saw if you have tables on both sides of the saw. Extend this pencil line as far as possible.
Place the fence along the pencil line with the end of the wooden fence almost touching the end of miter saw's metal fence. (Leave a 1/16" gap between the wooden fence and the metal fence.) Drill appropriately sized holes for the lag screws through the table top and into the 2x4 joist underneath the table top (one for each slot). Screw the fence to the table loosely so that it can be adjusted. Use the long straight edge on the miter saw's table and on the front of the fence to align the fence perfectly and screw down tightly. Repeat for the other side of the table if there is one.
For the left fence, place a "right to left" reading stick-on measuring tape along the top of the fence. For the right fence, place a "left to right" reading stick-on measuring tape along the top of that fence. Before sticking down, the tapes must be aligned perfectly. The left tape is measuring the distance from the left side of the saw blade teeth and the right tape is measuring the distance from the right side of the saw blade teeth. With a simple wooden fence like this, you can use wooden stop blocks clamped to the fence with C-clamps for repetitive cuts.
A slightly more expensive and far better alternative is to use a metal track or tracks with a flip-up stop and measuring tape built in. Such a device is manufactured by Kreg Tools and is available in 4-foot track lengths that can be butted together to make longer lengths. My miter saw table requires four 4-foot tracks, two for each side of the saw. The track is mounted to the top of the wooden fence you just made. You will have to adjust the height of the wooden fence (2 1/4"+ above the table top) so that the bottom of the flip-up stop clears the table by about 1/16" in the down position.
The nice thing about the flip-up stop is that it can be flipped up out of the way without loosing its measurement setting along the measuring tape. If you were making repetitive cuts and you needed to stop to use the saw momentarily for a different kind of cut, you could resume your repetitive cutting immediately without losing any accuracy.
PORTABLE MITER SAW TABLE FOR JOBSITE USE
A jobsite miter saw table is usually made with the saw mounted to the extreme right end of the table. I have found that most miter saw manufacturers make their metal table surfaces so that they are 3 1/2" above the table on which the saw is resting. A very straight, milled 4 x 4 (3 1/2" x 3 1/2") can be mounted onto the table top, almost abutting the left side of the metal table of the saw. The 4 x 4 should extend out the full length of the supporting table to the left and be mounted to the supporting table.
A fence can be attached to the back side of the 4 x 4. Use a 1 x 6 or 1 x 8 clear fir board for this purpose. As in the permanent table above, the front of the fence must align perfectly with the miter saw's metal fence. If a wider support surface is needed, a second 4 x 4 can be mounted directly in front of the one with the fence attached to it. A Kreg Trak system with a flip-up stop can also be used on this portable miter saw table. Just make sure the wooden fence is ripped to the proper height to allow the flip-up stop to clear the table by 1/16". (Fence is 2 1/4" + above the top of the 4 x 4.)
As for the support table, I have used a plastic fold-up table from Costco. They come in various sizes to suit your particular need. Or, you can make your own table out of 2 x 4's and 3/4" plywood. Design it so that the legs can fold up for transportation and storage.
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
Right Angle Clamp : 90 Degree Kreg Joints Made Easy!
Attaching a face-frame to a cabinet carcass, assembling drawers, shelving and other situations where you need to join workpieces at 90 degree angles is a snap with the Right Angle Clamp. It features a steel pin on one arm that fits snugly into one Pocket-Hole to clamp the pieces together as you drive a screw into an adjacent hole. Using the Right Angle Clamp is like having a helper on hand to hold materials at a perfect 90°. Clamp Using the Pocket-Hole The steel pin on one arm of the clamp is shaped to fit snuggly into a Pocket-Hole, securely anchoring one workpiece against the other for easy assembly. Just drive a screw in an adjacent Pocket-Hole while the Right Angle Clamp holds the pieces for you. Swivel Pad On the arm opposite the pin, this clamp features a pad capable of swiveling to adjust to the dimensions of your material, so you can count on solid clamping without a chance of the joint shifting. Ultra Wide Reach Whether you're joining two thin drawer sides for a cabinet, or thicker materials to frame an outdoor project, the Right Angle Clamp opens wide to get the job done. Use Two Clamps Many woodworkers find it handy to use two Right Angle Clamps when assembling large workpieces. Place a clamp on each end to hold the wood while you drive screws in the remaining Pocket-Holes.
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Monday, December 5, 2011
Kreg SML-F125 - 5000 1-1/4-Inch Pocket Screws, #7 Fine, Washer Head, 5000-Pack
!±8± Kreg SML-F125 - 5000 1-1/4-Inch Pocket Screws, #7 Fine, Washer Head, 5000-Pack
Rate :
| Price : $74.99 | Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 22:09:11Usually ships in 24 hours
This 1-1/4" fine thread, #2 square drive washer head screw works well in 3/4" thick, hardwood material such as oak, maple, hickory, cherry and walnut. The washer head of this screw is our most popular head style as the wide bearing surface of the head will not overdrive in the bottom of the pocket. This is especially important in softer material such as plywoods and composites. The screw also features a type 17 auger tip that self-taps its' own hole, eliminating the need to predrill in even the hardest materials. Kreg screws also have larger diameter steel shanks than many other screws on the market today making for an impressively strong screw that is almost impossible to break. Our screws have a bronze colored finish and a dry-lubricant coating that eases driving torque and provides greater rust resistance. For maximum rust resistance, look to our Sun-Seal coated weather resistant screws.
- Kreg SML-C125-5000 1 1/4-Inch Pocket Screws, #8 Coarse, Washer Head, 5000-Pack
- Kreg DDS 3-Inch No.2 Square Driver Bit and 6-Inch No.2 Square Driver Bit for Kreg Pocket Hole Systems
- Kreg SML-C125 1-1/4-Inch No. 2 Coarse Screw (1000-Pack)
- Kreg KJD Replacement Twist Step Drill Bit for Kreg Manual-Pocket Hole Systems
- Kreg KHC-RAC Right Angle Clamp
Friday, November 25, 2011
Trim Carpentry: The Basics
www.kregtool.com Gary Striegler is a second generation homebuilder with over 25 years of hands-on experience. Known all across the country for his use of time-proven techniques and beautiful home detailing, Gary is a strong advocate for anything that helps him get the job done faster, without sacrificing the strength and longevity of his work. Gary is the host of Kregs detailed Trim Carpentry DVD (from which these short clips were taken), which walks you through skills and strategies designed to speed your work and improve the quality of your finished product by building with Pocket-Screw Joinery. What Pocket-Holes let you do, is build better projects, faster, and really with less skill. -Gary Striegler
Monday, November 21, 2011
A Simple Concept - Pocket Hole Joinery
Pocket Hole Joinery consists of drilling a hole at an angle into one piece of wood, and then joining it to a second piece with a self-tapping screw. The technique of pocket hole joinery began in Egyptian times. "Egyptians clamped two workpieces together and bored a hole at an angle from the outside workpiece into the second workpiece. They then inserted a dowel with glue, and cut it off flush with the outermost surface." - Wikipedia
A simple concept, pocket hole joinery allows the user to utilize the same technology that is used in high production cabinet shops.
An advantage of pocket hole joinery over other types of joinery is that you only have to deal with one half the joint. With biscuits and dowels, you are dealing with both sides of the joint. There is also no time wasted waiting for the glue to dry, just screw and go. The result is a nice flat face which reduces sanding time and a good, solid joint that is ready to be used.
The Kreg System of pocket hole joinery uses a special 2-step drill bit. First, it drills a pilot hole in the end and second, it creates a flat bottom hole. Round bottom holes can cause the wood to split when you screw into them. Therefore, the flat bottom hole, combined with the self tapping screw creates a mini clamp on the joint making it extremely strong. From the Kreg website: "A independent lab completed testing a few years back that showed that a pocket hole joint failed at 707 pounds when subjected to a shear load while a mortise and tenon joint failed at 453 pounds (approximately 35% stronger). Pocket hole joints are tremendously strong for a couple of reasons. 1. The use of a mechanical fastener (screw) is significantly stronger than the material around it (wood), and 2. The amount of direct clamping force placed on the joint by driving the screw combined with today's glue technology makes for a sensationally strong bond."
The screws create an enormous amount of clamping power. Be sure that your boards are planed and your cuts are square because the pocket holes will pull joints off to the degree that you've cut the angles inaccurately. A packet of these screws come with the Kreg System and can also be purchased separately in varying quantities. As Dean Bielanowski states in his online review, "The screws supplied are square drive meaning no hassles with burring or stripping the heads when over-tightening, unlike Philips head and other generic-type screws. They also feature a 'washer head' to ensure a solid and even clamping force when driven. In fact, Kreg states on their website that in testing, the strength of the pocket hole joint with metal screws against other traditional forms of joinery (including mortise and tenon joints) was significantly greater. This ensures piece of mind when using pocket holes for joints that will encounter pressure or weight." Bonus: they cost no more than regular screws.
A valuable accessory to the Kreg System is the Right Angle Clamp. This handy tool helps easily hold together right angle joints, for instance in chairs and cabinets. The peg of the clamp goes right into the pocket-hole screw, holding your wood pieces together at 90 degrees. This makes is easy to then set the pieces by screwing into the other pocket holes. Kreg also makes plugs in various species of wood so that you can cover the holes that are made in decorative pieces such as shelving.
Kreg is better.
Kreg's pocket hole joinery system is better than the others. Why? Because of the flat bottom hole that the Kreg Joiner creates. Porter Cable's system creates a very nice looking but round bottom hole. Round bottom holes prevent the washer heads from fully seating which can cause the wood to split when you screw it tight. Also, Kreg's system works on demand. By that I mean that it doesn't stay running if you are not using it. The switch is in the handle that you pull down slightly to clamp, then you pull down more to activate the drill. It consists of one drill, not a separate router and drill bit like the Porter Cable System. And for pretty much the same price you get a very simple, very easy, very nice strong joint.
Eleven Uses for Pocket-hole Joints:
1. Right Angles
2. Beveled edges
3. Aprons
4. Leg rails
5. Picture Frames
6. Window Jambs
7. Trim carpentry
8. Built-ins
9. Decks
10. Cabinet frames
11. Stairways: Use pocket screws and lots of wood glue to keep them from squeaking between the bottom sides of treads and the riser. Almost all squeaks come from where wood is rubbing against nails.
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